Good eye cream should be incorporated into your daily skincare routine. The skin around the eye is very delicate which means that it can be easily irritated by using products that are designed for the rest of your face.
In my last blog, I discussed why the eye area is the first to show tell-tale signs of ageing. Are your eyes looking tired?
Keep reading to discover my answers to frequently asked questions on eye creams and what to look out for when choosing yours.
What age should I start investing in eye creams?
Prevention is better than cure. Start using eye creams before fine lines and wrinkles appear especially in the outer corner of the eye. This means starting in your twenties before collagen levels start to decline. The difficulty with starting once the fine lines have established is that the products take longer to work. Unfortunately, there are no speedy results when it comes to skincare alone.
What are the best ingredients to reduce wrinkles and increase moisture in the under-eye area?
When it comes to hydrating and plumping, hyaluronic acid held within the collagen matrix is the key. Within the matrix, as a glycosaminoglycan, hyaluronic acid has a ‘space-occupying function’ helping to keep tissue plump and strong. Elastin fibers within the matrix give stretch and elasticity to the skin. Together they provide your skin with its overall bounce and resiliency. With drop-in collagen levels over the age of 30, the under-eye area becomes the first to show creepiness.
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant which means it attracts and holds on to water. It is unique in its ability to hold 1000 times its weight in water. By moisturising skin, it promotes a smoother, softer and luminescent appearance on the surface.
The skin’s natural production and break down of hyaluronic acid are under enzyme control and this rate is affected by age, other internal influences and external factors.
So how can I get hyaluronic acid into my skin?
There are two ways to increase hyaluronic acid levels in your skin: Stimulate your own skin’s production while reducing breakdown or apply external hyaluronic acid to the skin.
Your skin’s own production can be influenced by ingredients such as retinoids (derivatives of vitamin A), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), peptides, alphahydroxyacids (AHAs), polyhydroxyacids (PHAs), elastin, antioxidants, etc. Some directly increase production while others prevent breakdown, so are important for maintaining levels.
When it comes to topical hyaluronic acid creams, they are not all the same. Hyaluronic acid is a large molecule and when applied as a cream, it would not be able to penetrate the skin surface and remain on the surface.
There are 2 forms hyaluronic acid used in skincare. One is sodium hyaluronate and the other is hydrolysed hyaluronic acid. The sodium hyaluronate is more stable and able to penetrate deeper in the skin. It is therefore superior in promoting a plumping effect on the skin. The hydrolysed form provides surface moisturisation by drawing water to it. However, if the environment is dry or if the humidity is low, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid will draw water from inside causing the skin to get even drier.
Sodium hyaluronate is present in AlumierMD© Retinol Eye Gel and Skinbetter science® Interfuse Treatment cream eye.
There are additional ingredients that improve skin hydration by improving skin cell barrier and reducing water loss. These include certain peptides, ceramides, glycerine, fatty acids, niacinamide, etc
What are the best ingredients for reducing dark circles and brightening the under-eye area?
Skin brightening ingredients like vitamin C, kojic acid, glutathione and retinoids can help to lift pigmentation slowly. Patented peptide blends and natural yeast extracts are reported to help to diminish dark circles. While light-reflecting and soft-focus ingredients help to immediately lighten the appearance of dark circles.
What are the best ingredients to reduce puffiness under the eyes?
One of the best ingredients to combat puffiness is caffeine.
Some products utilise soothing roller ball technology to mechanically reduce swelling. Examples of this include Obagi® Medical Elastiderm Eye Serum and Skinbetter science® Instant effect eye gel.
Should I be applying eye cream on my upper lid?
As a rule of thumb eye creams should not get too close to the eye or be applied on the upper lids.
Here are some Dos and Don’ts:
- Do dispense a small amount of your cream onto your ring finger. A grain of rice size is sufficient for each side.
- Do gently tap the cream between the lower lash and cheekbones keeping away from the lashes.
- Don’t rub or massage the cream as the advanced technology in medical skincare enables product absorption without trauma to the delicate skin.
- Above the eyes, do apply over the brow bone just under the eyebrow. It should not be applied to the very fragile and delicate upper lid unless the manufacturer specifically advises e.g NeoStrata® Intensive eye therapy.
- You may notice that if applied too close to the eye or too much product is applied, the eye may become irritated as some product may naturally track towards the eye.
- Do wear your sunscreen daily to limit any damage caused by UV radiation during daylight hours.
- Do let your products dry before applying makeup.
Should I use my eye cream once a day or twice a day?
Most eye creams are designed to be used twice daily. However, retinol containing creams or serums should only be applied at night.
Needless to say sunscreen is the most important skincare product for eye rejuvenation or for tackling dark circles as they help protect the skin and prevent further insult.
How to choose the right eye cream?
Eye creams are very popular and when it comes to choosing one, those with targeted medical-grade ingredients give you the best value for money. The eye cream needs to moisturise and hydrate the skin around the eyes as well as brighten dark circles. The ingredients need to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in this delicate area. If you are prone to fluid retention, you may want a cream that reduces puffiness. Hence, one size may not fit all.
Medical skincare available at Skin Enhance And Wellness that contain these ingredients in abundance include AlumierMD Retinol Eye Gel, Alumier AluminEye, Obagi Medical Elastiderm Eye cream, gel and eye serum, Skinbetter science Interfuse Treatment cream eye, Skinbetter science® Instant effect eye gel, NeoStrata Intensive eye therapy, NeoStrata Bionic eye cream, ZO Skin Health Intense Eye Crème and ZO Skin Health Hydrafirm.
If you want help to choose the right eye cream, get in contact with me or book an appointment for an in-depth skin consultation and bespoke skincare advice via my website.
📱07825 999 144 or
☎️ 01277 549 006
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